We had another excellent Scottish breakfast and started out for the day's agenda -- Dunvegan Castle, lunch at Three Chimneys, and a walk. These darlin' little churches appear in the middle of nowhere...Presbyterian, of course, not only because that is the national religion os Scotland, but also Kathy has determined that Presbyterians have the best looking churches and grounds of any other domination.....at least in our travels AND in the U.S.
Dunvegan Castle sits on a high rock overlooking Loch Dunvegan, an inlet off the Sea of the Hebrides which connects to the North Atlantic.
Construction was started by Vikings sometime in the 13th Century. A castle was built by Malcolm MacLeod in 1350.
Dunvegan Castle is and always has been the seat of the Chief of the Clan McLeod.
It is the longest continuously occupied castle in Scotland and has been the stronghold of the Clan McLeod for 800 years.
The fine print says no picture because this is the private residence of the current MacCleod chieftain. Well, how disappointing....Blenheim Palace is the home of the current Duke of Marborough, but we could take pictures there. By the way, the current chieftain is #30.
Since we couldn't take pictures inside, you will be treated to an endless flow of pictures outside! Inside included many, many portraits of the various chieftains....and one exceptional female chieftain, Dame Flora. She became an integral part of Scotland, not just her clan, performing many works of mercy....even rescuing Bonnie Prince Charlie and ensuring his safe passage to France. She lived in the Castle until she was 95....died at 98 in a rest home during the 1970's. There is a monument on the island in her memory. She is revered by everyone
The Water Garden
The Circular Garden
Back on the narrow roads. Narrow is a misnomer...single lane is more accurate.
The two flat top hills are known as "MacLeod's Tables".
At a passing place on a single track road. A "passing place" is merely a wide spot in the road and whoever is closest to it is required to pull over so the other can pass.
However, sometimes there is a sheep resting there which makes it much more challenging.
Or many sheep resting there.
Or perhaps one simply crossing the road. It has been noted that the sheep are the main cause of vehicle accidents. They do not respond to the cars, to the horns, to the lights....they are completely oblivious and will not move.
Our luncheon destination, The Three Chimneys....reputedly one of the best restaurants in all of the UK. Tom and I search for the 5* places, but go for lunch when it is half the price.
Everything was served on slate.
In the "better", shall I say "pricier"?, restaurants, even lunch is served as "prix fixe". In this case, the left side of the menu was a 3 course at one price and there was no selection or the right side of the menu, there were 3 courses, but you had a choice in each category. We opted for the right side, not liking any of the choices on the right. "Service is at your discretion", meaning the tip is NOT included as most places. Needless to say, they were scampering all around, filling water glasses, folding napkins, etc....a 'twas a bit much.
Above is my "starter"....a beetroot salad.....don't recognise it, do you? neither did I!! Had to ask one of the waiters what I was eating...there are a few red beets at either end and a few in the middle....the rolls are root vegetables, including every colour of beet, rolled with gruyere cheese, topped with a balsamic drizzle.....and the brown seeded "cookies" on either end are pralines wafers with sesame seeds.
Below is Tom's "starter"....the brown circle is GOAT!!! yep, he did horse years ago in France, now goat....he said it was delicious. Believe it or not, it didn't taste like chicken....he said beef. It was accompanied by a pastille stuffed with various cheeses.
Both these dishes were delicious and we should have been finished. We were full. That's one problem with fixed menus....kinda like buffet....you keep eating cuz you paid for it!
We both ordered the same "main"....salmon and scallops....umm, that would be one of each....just enough, truly. Accompanied by roast potatoes, zucchini, broiled roma tomatoes and minced crabmeat, surrounded by a divine sauce of what we know not.
As we leave the restaurant, we are greeted with this fabulous view.
We are ready to walk off some of this meal, so we take off for the most western point in all of Scotland, the Neist Lighthouse. It is a highly recommended sight to see and walk to take.
Tom is driving....the road is one of those single lane, passing point killers.....I'm getting more white knuckled each passing foot and yard...
It's one thing when the bus is doing the driving....Tom keeps assuring me that he knows what he is doing. I keep telling myself that I can do this, but then I look up and see the distant road....the sign says we have FOUR MORE MILES!!!!
In the pictures above and below, search for the road.....I finally had to say: "NO!"
To Tom's deep disappointment, we turned around. I was simply too terrified....and then we had to get BACK even if we had kept going. Don't know if you remember, but I sure do, that this happened in NZ and I tried to charter a plane back....too expensive so I drank of glass of scotch and went to sleep.
So we drove back to Dunvegan....in total silence....and sat on a park bench, reading our books. Noticed this WWI memorial.
We were overlooking the town
After bout an hour, we decided to be brave and cross the street to the "dive looking" bar. Well, as it often happens, this was one of our better experiences. We walked in and quickly met Willy.
Kathy noticed an empty bottle of Corona sitting on the bar. "Can I have one of those?" she asked. Willy opened the fridge and showed her several and got her a cold one. "Do you have a lime for that? Kathy asked. "Sure!" Willy says. At this point, the guy sitting nest to us at the bar, Jack, says "She doesn't mean lime juice, Willy!".
Willy moves down the bar, produces a whole fresh lime, cuts it, and gives a piece to Kathy for her Corona. "I've been coming here for eight years and I've never heard anybody ask for a lime and have certainly never seen one." Jack says. Willy turns to Kathy and says "I knew you were trouble when I saw you walk in here." All laughed. Tom was so embarrassed that his wife had not only ordered a Mexican beer in Scotland, but ordered fruit for it, too, that he ordered his pint-o-Guinness and went outside by the lake to drink.
Before long, about 1 Guinness later, the midges come out with a vengeance. Midges are small (unseeable for 70 year old eyes) gnat-like insects that bite like a pin stick -- similar to Carolina Noseeums. On the way back in, we see why we had to take a detour from the bar to the back patio. "Only been like that about 4 years." Willy says.
Back through the pool room to the pub.
Back in the bar, another Corona and lime for Kathy and a room-temperature Skye Golden Ale for Tom. We soon learn that there is a McLeod Clan gathering going on in Dunvegan. Dame Flora started the gatherings every 4 years. Many years they get up to 400 McLeods from all over the world gathering in Dunvegan. Willy had assumed that we were McLeods. When he found out we were not McLeods, he opened up even more. We got in to politics -- the Scottish Referendum, Ukraine, Middle East, etc. We met the owner of the local museum and his dog Meg.
After tasting some whiskies, we headed home for the night. On the way we picked up some cheese for our mini dinner in the room. We wandered by the Dunvegan Police Station..
and the police car.
and a mail box built into a rock wall...
a utility cabinet built into a rock wall....
Remember Willy told us about the World Gathering of the Clan McLeod.
Some of the attendees.
A sign in the car park. Kathy thinks that they are trying to keep out the hookers.
Windmills from our bedroom window at the Pink Footed Goose.
Part of Loch Dunvegan backed by the Cuillin Mountains, from our bedroom window...
Also from our bedroom window, a lone gull watches over the sheep....and stayed there for at least 40 minutes...I gave up and went to bed.....good night!!!
